Thursday, January 27, 2011

Daily Life

I'm officially stealing this idea from another SALTer. So thanks, Liz.

I thought I should give you some idea of what my daily life is like. Before coming here, when I thought about friends overseas, I imagined all sorts of adventures and constantly engaging and fascinating work. Now from experience I can say that I do have adventures and my work can be interesting, but in most ways living overseas is just doing life, just like at home. So here's a glimpse at my day to day schedule.

First, I wake up around 6:40, take a cold shower (no hot water), get ready (doesn't take long with no makeup and no hairdryer!), and catch a motodupe (a motobike taxi) for 2000 riel (50 cents) to work.

Monday, Wednesday, and Friday I stay at MCC til lunch. Usually I check email, read the newspaper, work on MCC-related paperwork, run any errands, etc. Then I eat lunch at MCC with coworkers and head to my partner organization, Peace Bridges, after lunch. (motodupe 5000 riel or $1.25) At Peace Bridges I work on my research project. (Next week I start administering my survey!) At 5, I head home.

Tuesdays and Thursdays, I still come to MCC in the morning to get breakfast, but then I head to Peace Bridges around 9. I work there all day and eat lunch with my coworkers there. I just started doing this, but I really like it. They are great people and its a great opportunity to practice my Khmer.

Usually I'm the first person home in my family. I'll watch TV or read for awhile til my youngest sister gets home from school. Then I chat with her while she makes dinner. We eat dinner sitting on the floor in the kitchen or living room, chatting and watching music videos. Some nights we watch TV all together, or sit in the kitchen and talk, or all go do our own thing, or go out to the mall or riverside. Then I head to bed around 9 or 10.

Pretty simple and routine. Most of the time I love it, but of course sometimes routine can get to you, no matter what continent you are on! I know my plan this year was to decide if I was interested in living overseas in the long term and although I already feel like I've learned a lot of lessons about living overseas, I am no where near deciding what I think about future plans. It shouldn't be a surprise that this experience creates as many questions as answers. So I guess I'll just be content living in the moment, enjoying this time.

Monday, January 24, 2011

two thoughts

So far this week, and its only Tuesday, I've spent far to significant a chunk of time reading about child abuse, rape, corruption, and drug use in Cambodia for a work project. I've also spent a chunk of time thinking about how all my friends are in a huge period of transition and how most are being overwhelmed by it on a regular basis. These two factors combined put me in a contemplative mood. So two thoughts for this week:

First, I've been amazed at the vastness of corruption in Cambodia. Anything can be done if you put money in the right person's hands. Last week, there was an article quoting the prime minister in the newspaper. He stated that Cambodia was not Tunisia and he would like to crush opposition parties completely. His exact words were something about beating them like dogs behind closed doors. Rarely do you see such an unveiled statement about the true nature of politics in this country. In Kirirom National Park, all sorts of illegal logging goes on but no one cares if they are paid off. This in a country that has lost something like 60% of its forest in the last 40 years. In schools, teachers make students pay for handouts and photocopies because they have to pay their supervisors who have to pay their supervisors all the way on to the top of the government. There are so many good things that could happen in Cambodia if this kind of corruption was eradicated! There really would be a completely free education system, the environment would be protected, votes would mean something, illegal tolls would be removed from roads that were donated. . . really a whole society would have a much better chance of developing and developing in an egalitarian manner. Its sad and frustrating, because I surely don't have any ideas about how to make that kind of change. I suppose the Cambodian people need to demand it and maybe that will happen. But it seems that the majority are quite comfortable hoping that they will someday be the ones collecting the bribes not paying them. We talk about corruption in the American system, and I'm sure its there, but its nothing like here. There is something to be said for the idea that no matter how much Americans complain about the government, most believe in the system and benefit from it. Its a huge issue and I can't really wrap my mind around it.

My second thought is about this stage in life- post college transition. Its find a job, become financially independent, figure out where you want to live, find a church, make a new circle of friends, maybe get married for some. Its a huge shift from talking about the kind of adult you want to be and actually having to live out those principles- whether it is fearlessly moving to a new city, volunteering, getting involved in a church, buying local, using the bus to help save the environment. . . a million different things. There's a zillion questions and the answer to most of them is - just wait, it will work out. And my friends and I get to face this in an economy that doesn't have good jobs for us inexperienced college grads. So we're going on to grad school, working retail, interning, volunteering- all of which continue to give life an unsettled feeling. Even here in Cambodia, I feel these things and am already anticipating them for next year. So what's the solution? Where's the end of this unsettled, transitional feeling going to come from? I don't have any answers, but the best advice I've been given is to just enjoy it. Life moves forward. Most decisions you make now will not ruin the rest of your life. You can choose to stress out about the future or you can choose to enjoy your life and friends here in the moment and hold onto hopes for the future. I'm certainly a planner, so this is somewhat against my nature! This is just one stage of life, there's no need to skip onto the next one too quick. I also know that I am sustained in this massive transition by God. Although I can't see it or touch it or put it on my calendar, He has a plan. This verse struck me this week:
Psalm 4: 6-8
6There are many who say, "Who will show us some good?
Lift up the light of your face upon us, O LORD!"
7You have put more joy in my heart
than they have when their grain and wine abound.

8In peace I will both lie down and sleep;
for you alone, O LORD, make me dwell in safety.

We can choose to question God's goodness when our lives seem out of control or we can live in the joy he gives us- the joy that is greater than when grain and wine abound, greater than when everything is going well and is under control.

So that's two random thoughts of the week oddly put together in one blog post!


Kirirom National Park

This last weekend I headed out to Kirirom National Park with a group of friends and friends of friends from the house church I attend. Most of the group were mountain biking, but a few of us chose to hike instead. In fact, 2 of us crashed a guest house instead of in a hammock at the campsite! But it still felt like a great North American style camping trip. For one, we were a ways up a mountain so we were surrounded by pine trees. Pine trees that smell like Whitworth and home. The one night trip also included spaghetti cooked over an open fire, roasting marshmallows, a clear night with a million stars, and lots laughter with fun new people.

A little background about Kirirom- Before the Khmer Rouge this area was quite a vacation spot. Its only a two hour drive from Phnom Penh, perfect for a day trip. The king had a hot season house up on the mountain and there was a tea plantation. The Khmer Rouge took over the area early in the civil war and actually occupied it until 1992. Hard to believe. Although the KR lost power in 1979, they fought on in pockets of wilderness until 1999. We hiked up to the old palace, now all ruins. It was kind of creepy knowing that the KR destroyed the place, and were there less than 20 years ago. I found Kirirom to be something of a mysterious place. Because it has not always been a protected forest, you come across things like decaying houses and fences. In addition, plenty of illegal logging is obviously still going on. Its far to easy to put money in the right hands and then get to do whatever you want in this country. But, at least for now, Kirirom is a beautiful place and one of the more pristine I've seen in Cambodia.

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

On a lighter note

This morning my mom told me my last blog post was depressing. Well, its hard to make genocide a chipper topic. But, I realized I should add something on the lighter side of Cambodian life as a counterweight. So please enjoy a few fun facts, proverbs, and cultural lessons.

1) A Cambodian proverb: Just like a chili is always spicey, a woman is always jealous.

2) Cambodians eat rice with a spoon. In fact, a spoon is your main utensil. America might be a first world nation, but the fact that we try to eat rice with a fork proves we still have room to advance.

3) Cambodian delicacy: Pong Tia Koun- Literally meaning baby duck egg. This is an egg with a partially developed duck fetus inside. Developed just enough to have little crunch. I tried it with so much sauce I couldn't taste it, but I'm still not eager to try it again. Every Cambodian I know thinks these are delicious, but my American mind just can't overcome the idea of them.

4) The main form of transportation here is moto- motorbikes. Think vespa. The law says only 2 people per moto and at least the driver has to wear a helmet, but I've seen up to 4 adults or 2 adults and 3 children. I've also seen 30 dead chickens, 1 big dead pig, 3 live pigs, a book shelf, a couch, and a delivery vehicle for a pizza place. Probably the funniest part is I don't even notice these things anymore. They are so commonplace.

5) Cambodian superstition: If you get caught in a rain storm and don't take a shower right when you get home, you will get a headache. And this isn't knock on wood or a black cat- my sisters barely believed me when I said I didn't get a headache.

6) Fun language quirks: The word for pregnant literally means to have a house stomach. The word for 'to like' means to enter your heart. The word for 'milk' means water from the teat of the cow.

7) Cambodians love Angelina Jolie. She shot part of Tomb Raider here and then adopted a Cambodian baby. If that weren't enough, she also created a pretty well respected NGO here working with children who have HIV/AIDS. So in that sense, I'd say she deserves their love.

8) My sisters and I spend a good portion of every week watching music videos- Cambodian and American yes, but predominantly Korean. Korean Pop is seriously a huge deal and America is missing out. Think boy bands meet awesome special effects in music videos. Hip hop dancing is seriously becoming a global culture. Some band names: 2NE1, 2pm, Girls Generation, Super Junior, G Dragon. Being in Cambodia might be permanently altering my tastes, because I've actually developed a like/love of these bands. Oh and people do the dances to these bands' videos on the street in the evening for exercise. Come five o clock, dance groups pop up all over the city every night. Only 25 cents to join : )

9) In Sihanoukville, the main beach town, many restaurants boast happy food. Happy pizza. Happy burgers. Happy smoothies. In case you haven't already guessed, happy means a little marijuana mixed in for good measure. Only 50 cents extra. And though I ate at Happy Herb Pizza many nights on my most recent vacation, I chose to avoid the happy!

10) And finally, I don't know if its because of all the collective trauma this country has experienced or simply a natural part of their culture, but people here are resilient and always, always joking and laughing. Even when I can't follow the conversation, I"m still having a good time because everyone is cracking up half the time. From the silly to the serious to the ridiculous, Cambodia is a joy to get to know and live in.




Monday, January 17, 2011

Living in a post-genocide society

Kind of a heavy title, I admit, but it is what's on my mind. First a little background, in case you weren't born yet when it happened or haven't studied it in school.

Cambodians suffered through genocide from 1975-1979, while they were ruled by a pseudo-radical-marxist group, the Khmer Rouge. The Khmer Rouge came to power after nearly a decade of civil war that began with the overflow of the Vietnam War into Cambodia. The US secretly bombed Cambodia, attempting to cut of North Vietnamese supply routes. Bombed actually is too tame of a word. The US dropped more bombs on Cambodia then were dropped on Germany in all of WWII. And I have stood in places these bombs were dropped. The US also played a role in setting up the pre-Khmer Rouge prime minister/dictator, Lon Nol. America wanted a leader with a pro-America attitude in power.

So in 1975 the Khmer Rouge came to power in a country already heavily damaged by years of war, destroyed infrastructure, and displacement. The Khmer Rouge wanted to set Cambodia back to Year Zero and create a agriculture based Utopia. They despised the intellectual class and any one with connections to the West. On coming to power, they forcibly empty Phnom Penh and sent all Cambodians to work in the rice fields. Most people were displaced far from their home province. Their reign included mass executions of former political figures, intellectuals, the educated, minority groups, and anyone who dared contest their power or complain. Added to this were deaths from overwork and starvation. Cambodia was producing plenty of rice, but it was all getting sold outside the country. Families were split up. Children were sent to work in separate kids work crews. People were told not to trust anyone, even their relatives. The Ongka, or organization, was their only family now and it needed to be obeyed without question. Others were forced to marry strangers in mass ceremonies. All religion was wiped out. Monks were derobbed. Religious festivals canceled permanently . All in all, an attempt at the complete destruction of Khmer culture and society.

The Khmer Rouge lost power when the Vietnamese invaded and then controlled Cambodian for 10 years. To the West's great shame, in my mind, it continued to recognize the Khmer Rouge as the government of Cambodia because anything was better than communists. Seriously, what misguided politics. The Khmer Rouge fought on in the western regions of the country until an official surrender in 1999.

The legacy of this dark period of Cambodia is obviously hard to compute. Land mines. Mass trauma. Refugee exodus. Destroyed infrastructure. Loss of a generation of educated people leading to a huge void and need for capacity building. A post conflict baby boom generation that is struggling to find jobs today. Effects on the attitude about the current government. And certainly many more things.

But what led me to right this post was a visit the the genocide museum in Phnom Penh, Tuol Sleng. I have visited museums about the Cambodian genocide in the US and the Holocaust museum in DC and this place was equally moving- and made all the more real because in fact this museum is a former school that was used as a torture center from 75 to 79. During that time, in the middle of an empty Phnom Penh, 20,000 people were interrogated, tortured, and taken outside the city to be executed. Of all the people to pass through the prison, only 7 survived. In addition, nearly 20,000 children perished there along with their parents.

The museum is the cells and the torture devices and photo after photo of victims. The whole place is eerie. How much blood can one place absorb before it becomes holy ground? Of course, this place brings up old questions- why does genocide happen? how did it happen here? what evils are people capable of? As I walked through, I resigned myself to the fact that those questions don't have answers. Instead I looked at headshot after headshot thinking, I need to see them all. I need them to know I saw them, someone saw them. Many were children. Some were smiling, probably the first time they ever had their picture taken. I mean there's no simple or acceptable answer for that.

Strangely, it was a Disney song playing through my head- God Help the Outcasts from the Hunchback of Notre Dame. This is the line I thought again and again:
I thought we all were the children of God
God help the outcasts
Children of God

And I don't have more words than that.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

A Khmer Wedding

Last night I attended my first Khmer wedding. Khmer weddings are an all day affair, with all the many ceremonies in the morning and a party at night. I only attended the night part, but it was a blast.

First, I must write about my outfit. Since this might be my only Khmer wedding, I decided to go all out and have something traditional made. My sisters helped me buy fabric and find a tailor. Today, girls my age would usually wear a prom type dress to the night part of a wedding. I decided to go a little more traditional, thinking that it would be more fun to have traditional clothes when I go home. Traditional clothes means a long, straight skirt and a sparkly, tight fitting top. I know, its not what you would expect. One of my sisters also took me to get my hair and makeup done- including fake eyelashes (there's a first I wasn't expecting to have this year!). Below is the result:


I have to admit that the sparklyness appeals to everything in me that loves tackiness. There simply aren't enough opportunities in America to glitter. It makes you feel like a princess! My family took about a million pictures of me. It felt like I was going to prom or something.

The wedding itself was also great. I learned how to do some traditional dancing. I also got told a million times how Khmer I looked- I take that as a real compliment! Everyone of my Khmer coworkers, not to mention strangers at the wedding, simply loved that I had made the effort to go Khmer. I even was given a rose by a complete stranger and told he wished me a happy and beautiful life. I'd say it was a full evening. It definitely qualified as one of those nights where every part of me loves everything about Cambodia.

So the verdict is Khmer weddings are awesome. Everyone is there to make it a night to remember. Khmer people know how to celebrate! I hope I get invited to a few more.

Thoughts on 2010

Even though I see my fellow Cambodia MCCers everyday, we all still seem to keep up on each other's blogs. Silly, I know, but we've got some good writers here! This blog post idea I'm stealing from Grace, the newest 3 year member of the team and my coworker at our partner, Peace Bridges.

2010 has come to a close, and it was a big year for me. I mean college graduation and moving to Cambodia- seriously how much change can one year actually contain?! So now is the time for reflection. Below you'll find some of my highlights from 2010 in no particular order:

1) Graduating from Whitworth. Concluding a great season of life with many wonderful conversations, much celebration, and a real sense of accomplishment. Those few weeks leading up to graduation are some of the best I've ever had- filled with great one on one times, group reminiscing, laughter, bittersweet goodbyes, and hope for the future. Its a wonderful thing to take time to give a season the goodbye it deserves.

2) Helping to organize and participating in a flash mob in Whitworth's cafeteria. Life goal achieved. And what better song is there than You Can't Stop the Beat from Hairspray?

3) Living in the Shalom Community Center at Whitworth. Building relationships with many lovely, caring, Christ like people. Learning what it means to love and be loved in community. Endless games of Settlers of Catan, dance parties in the kitchen, prayer times, and all around goofiness. Not to mention writing our fears and insecurities on notecards, putting them in a pinata, and watching it burn- our animal sacrifice, giving those fears up to God

4) SALT orientation. A great week in Pennsylvania meeting not only the other Cambodia SALTers, but also SALTers heading around the world. Being mutually encouraged and endlessly excited together. Feeling like part of an international MCC family. Looking at the faces of people from around the world and knowing that peace is possible, because I could see it everyone person's eyes.

5) The feeling I had as we flew into Phnom Penh after 30 hours of travel. Searching for Khmer looking architecture out the window of the plane. Trying to imagine calling this place home. The glorious anticipation of it all.

6) A farewell party in Seattle with my 5 best friends in the world. These are the people who I would walk on water for, who are an incredible support even when I am 10,000 miles away. Its amazing thing to have so many beautiful, lifelong friends. There wasn't anyone in that room I've known for less than 10 years and we're only 22.

7) The endless moments here in Phnom Penh where I realize that I have the best host family ever. It happens as we sit on the floor in the kitchen eating rice. It happens when we all go out dancing. It happens when I see them defend me when someone tries to overcharge me because I'm a foreigner. It happens when we watch Korean Pop videos for hours. It happens in all those little moments where I am so lovingly included in their day to day lives.

8) Seeing Angkor Wat and a passel of other ancient temples. They didn't make the most recent 7 Wonders of the World list, but I don't see why.

9) A trip to San Francisco over spring break with Chelsea and Amanda. Being complete tourists, almost throwing up after eating Ghiradelhi sundaes and climbing to see the crooked road, pretending to be in jail at Alcatraz, including Mee-la in the trip by buying a spatula with a smilie face on it, taking pictures with it everywhere, and tagging Mee-la on facebook. Knowing that though all our lives are changing rapidly, something in our friendship is solid no matter how much we and our different circumstances change.

10) The day I found out I was going to Cambodia. I came home from my internship to Shalom. Claire was in the hall. It was the exact moment I imagined. I screamed that I got in, everyone came out into the hall, and we danced and screamed and hugged for 15 minutes. The perfect celebration.

11) Discovering that the other 3 Cambodia SALTers would indeed by great friends. We've formed a wonderful team/family to fall back on whenever we need it. I'm blessed to have great people to share this year with.

12) My brother's wedding. Welcoming Karen into the family, plus I got to wear a pretty dress : )

13) Two day trips, just my mom and I, to the beach this last summer. A sort of bonding and farewell time walking and laughing and playing giant tic tac toe in the sand.

And that about sums it up. A good year- full of ups and downs, but good nonetheless.

Monday, January 3, 2011

Christmas and Vacation

Happy 2011 everyone!

But let me start with Christmas. I was expecting Christmas this year to be pretty depressing overall. I mean here I am 10,000 miles away from all my usual traditions. But, because my expectations were so slow, I actually had a pretty amazing time. On the weekend before Christmas, I participated in the MCC Christmas party and the Christmas service at my church. Because this is Buddhist country, Christmas isn't a day off for people, so the church just celebrates early. Believe it or not, I actually sang in front of people at my church! Not alone, but still something I would never have done before. The MCC party was fun because all my sisters came and it just felt good to see how we are a family outside of our house.

On actual Christmas Eve, I went to another MCCer's house with a few MCC people and some people from the house church I have been attending. We decorated, sang carols, and exchanged gifts. Then we slept out on their deck under mosquito nets. In the morning we had Christmas breakfast together. So lovely. At home I would never willing choose to spend Christmas not my family, but it was kind of cool to have to spend it with friends. Christmas day was spent showing Bryn, a SALTer visting from Vietnam, around Phnom Penh. And then on the 26th, we all left for a week of vacation in Sihanoukville (the beach) and Siem Riep. So my Christmas was actually pretty great. I wasn't in the holiday spirit as much as normal, but it still felt like a celebration.

Vacation was fun too. A long week of lazing around and tons of swimming. Highlights included a day of snorkeling, delicious seafood, dancing, laying on the beach and poolside, eating Mexican food (a rare thing here), and plenty of Dutch Blitz games. Spent way to much money, had a great time. I have been planning this trip since I first arrived, and its weird to have it over with. I guess I need to start planning my next major trip. Maybe Laos? Who knows.

New Years wasn't my best ever, but it was fun. There was a huge party on the street in Siem Riep, which I thought would be awesome. It turned out to be a little overwhelming- way to many people in a small space- so I called it a night soon after midnight. But it was definitely a once in a lifetime experience with good friends.

In other news, this weekend I'm attending my first Khmer wedding- a co worker at my partner organization, Peace Bridges. I'm having some traditional clothing made (I promise there will be pictures). I could have gotten away with not wearing something fancy, but I figure this could be my only wedding here, so why not go all out? Plus, I've gotta show off the outfit when I come home. I'm going to the tailor tonight for a fitting, so we'll see what happens. Dressy clothing in Cambodia is notoriously sparkly and bright, so I might end up looking like something from a Lisa Frank notebook. Oh well.